travelwithjamesdean.ca

This adventure was a guided tour, and we explored across Ecuador and the Amazon Basin Tour.
Our guide Miguel was amazing, and was so knowledgeable about people, history and locations we travelled to. The tour group were all a really good bunch of people, (as l think a trip like this generally attracts seasoned travellers and know the expectations have to be lower in South America).
Like many places that are not nearly as well off as we are, there was a feeling of entitlement when at the end of the day we would go back to our gated hotel for the night. Our guide was very reassuring that the newer tourism industry is bringing better paying jobs for all kinds of guides, drivers, hotels and restaurants... but there was still a feeling of the inequity in the world.
Ecuador is a beautiful country, and l would highly recommend a visit - it is also the jumping off point to see the Galápagos Islands, although we did not include it, as any travel to the Galápagos will certainly double the cost of your trip.!

Quito

Formally known as San Francisco de Quito (pronounced Key-Toe) - the capital of Ecuador is the country’s most populated city that is located at an elevation of 2,850 m (9,350 ft), so l was warned about the high elevation with asthmatic issues. Many struggle with “altitude sickness” as symptoms includes headache, loss of appetite, and trouble sleeping. The city was not a problem, but taking the TelefériQo (or cable car) 4,000m (over 13,000ft) made it a little more necessary for Ventolin after hiking around the top of Pichincha Volcano.

The Old Town (Centro Historico) is apparently built on the ruins of an original Incan settlement - but the more recently, beautiful restored 17th-century facades, with the peaceful palm tree lined Plaza Grande, are a great starting point to explore all the main sites within walking distance, as well as the many cute shops and cafes.
(Note that Centro Historico does NOT have the same safe feel after dark as it does during the day)

Otavalo

The town is probably most famous for the Otavalo Market, as the indigenous Otavaeños are famous
for weaving textiles, usually made of wool of the local llama or alpacas. You can find the Saturday market in the Plaza de los Ponchos, as well as the many local shops.
Just outside town is a shop called Helado De Paila hand-made ice cream with local recipes that are simple: fruit, water, and sugar, spun in a large copper pail, sitting on a bed of ice. (I believe the name literallymeans Pail Ice Cream)

La Punta Ahuano - Amazon-Basin

We arrive at the Napo River where we board dugout canoes to take us to the Amazon-basin lodge, Casa del Suizo.
This resort was established in the 1960s by a Swiss couple who saw even then, that there was a need to start an Eco-friendly kind of resort that helps to save the surrounding tropical rainforest. What a fantastic, relaxing place to spend a couple of nights - however, many in our group were disappointed to hear that our tour was on the Napo River in the Amazon basin, and not specifically the Amazon River.
A highlight was the Napo River rafting on balsa wood rafts to return to the resort. Built in the traditional methods, we sink into the cold water... a number of us jump in to float along side the rafts.
Later a hike with local guides introduce us to the secrets of the tropical rain forest. The routes lead throughpicturesque creeks, some hills up and down, to a scenic viewpoint, always walking under the dark jungle canopy.

How to See the Rare Andean Condor

While planning our trip to Argentina, l began to read about the Andean Condor - the largest flying bird in the world, with a wingspan of up to 3m (10ft). Known as the “King of the Andes” and is considered a national symbol, even represented on the Ecuadorian flag - it would be treat to experience seeing one in flight. But, it quickly seemed unlikely, as seeing them in the wild can be very challenging. In fact it is believed there are only 100 or so wild condors in Ecuador. So, the next best thing was to be in a location like the Otavalo Condor Park (Parque Cóndor), a Dutch-owned foundation, which rehabilitates birds of prey and is a great place to see them up close - so that was my plan.

But, as fate would have it, our arrival in Quito, started with breakfast with a view, on the top floor of our hotel. Within a few minutes of being seated, a MASSIVE Andean Condor soared by the windows, causing a huge uproar in the restaurant. This is so unheard of, and such a rare sighting, that l did not think for one second to grab for my camera. We just sat in amazement and enjoyed this spectacle.
Leaving the restaurant to start our day, we realized there was no need for the Condor Park, as it could not improve on the sight we had just seen...

On Being a Local Attraction.!

This tour was promoted as a “meet the locals” kind of thing, and we all felt like we did get off the beaten trail to see more authentic life in Ecuador. People were so warm and friendly.
One of my interesting experiences was walking by a grade school as they let out, and all the dark haired children gathered around me, as they were fascinated with my grey hair - (I did not realize what was so unusual - since I have been grey for so long)... But they were curious, because even the little old ladies all seemed to have jet-black hair.!

Very Famous Local Musicians in Quito

After taking in all the amazing architecture and sites of Quito, we were looking into plans for the evening - discovering a performance by three local guitar players sounded like it might be interesting, so we went to check it out.

After arriving at the intimate venue, we felt like we discovered the best kept secret in town, that was certainly not promoted as a tourist attraction. The performers were obviously wonderful story tellers as well as musicians, and with our limited Spanish, we understood that they, at times, WERE TALKING ABOUT US, and saying things about welcoming us into their home.! The crowd would look over at us and smile. We enjoyed such a special show, and realized that these were hugely popular local musicians. (We felt it was like we were seeing the Three Tenors in a special personal show). Best of all it was a free concert - and we felt like honoured guests.
Make sure to look into local events and festivals to find these little gems, to make your travel special.

Finding Paradise at Termas de Papallacta

One of the more unexpected surprises on our Ecuadorian tour was our stay at the Termas de Papallacta Spa.
Perched in a valley at the entrance to the Ecuadorian Amazon jungle, the fabulous spa-resort offers thermal pools just outside our rooms fed directly from the heated volcanic waters.
But, the biggest surprise was an optional offer that included a massage, eucalyptus steam room with a drink and a special private thermal baths for amazing pampering. This was the best $35 we ever spent, upon hearing of this value, everyone else at dinner that was with our tour wished that had taken advantage of this fantastic offer.

Exciting Tarabita Canopy Zipline

We stopped near the town of Mindo to do a zip line type canopy ride across the River Mindo.
We had read that it was about 250m (820ft) to the bottom and an amazing 1,300m (4,300ft) across.!!! Not only that, but the ride finishes above twin waterfalls (Manto de la novia falls). Then a basket type of contraption returns you back to the starting point.
(There are quite a number of options, but after the particular zipline we tried - it was only afterwards that we realized that the entire construction was a little less than confidence building - although a couple of small local children walked around the edge quite freely and we all survived to tell the tale.)

Centre of the World in Ecuador

North of the city of Quito, you find the Ciudad Mitad del Mundo or Middle of the World City, that is where you will find the Monument to the Equator.
Tourists all stand straddling the yellow line separating the northern and Southern Hemisphere... but the equator apparently lies about 240 meters north of the marked line by GPS.! The tiny, local Intiñan Solar Museum, claiming to be at the “true” Equator, demonstrates tricks which are supposedly possible only on the Equator, such as water flowing both counter-clockwise and clockwise down a drain due to Coriolis effect, balancing eggs on end... kind of sideshow-like but all in fun.!!
Whatever is more accurate, both are cool places to be on the Equator.

The Locals have a Delicacy that May Seem Unusual

As Canadians, children often keep them as pets, but what is this delicious local delicacy best served with salsa & potatoes - we soon find out at a restaurant serving traditional food. Going back to ancient Incan days, the Guinea pig (or “Cuy”) has been served on special occasions. Often now, you can often see them being cooked at roadside grills.
It is my understanding that they do not live in the wild, and are bred for food like any domestic farm animal. And, as for the taste - I hate to say it, but “it really does taste like chicken”.!!

We had an interesting discussion with a niece, shortly after our trip to Ecuador. She asked if we would donate to a cause that was suggested in her grade school class, “We are raising money for families to buy Guinea Pigs in Ecuador” she said... We simply gave her the money without telling her that it wasn’t going to be someone’s best little friend.!! (sorry Molly.!)

Driving in Ecuador

Thankfully all the driving for us was done by a professional driver during our Ecuadorean tour.! Some of the roads, especially through the Avenue Of The Volcanoes, were somewhat less safe than we would expect in Canada... terrifying hairpin turns and extremely narrow, but at times there was actually not enough space for two vehicles to pass.

So what does one do when our 50 passenger tour bus and a dump truck do when they meet on a cliff side road with no guardrails.? Simply drive the coach bus in REVERSE about a half mile DOWN the hill and around the corner until you can pull over at a crossroad.!!! The driver acted like it was just another day at the office.!!
Needless to say, l bought him a couple of drinks in appreciation (only later at a hotel that he was staying overnight with our group)

Be Courteous of Local Customs and Culture

I am always try to make myself aware of a little history that has taken place in locations we travel to. It makes you more in touch with the local people you meet and what their particular country has endured to become what it is today. I find that people can be impressed by your bit of knowledge, and WANT to speak of it, even when it is not very nice history.

For example: The Ecuadorean people are proud of the conflict (and ultimate independence) from the Spanish conquerors, as illustrated in the artworks by famous painter Oswaldo Guayasamín - One of the best examples is Toro y cóndor at the Guayasamin Museum - Capilla del Hombre (The Chapel of Man) in Quito, depicting the mighty Ecuadorean Condor defeating the mighty Spanish Bull.
(Touch on history while travelling, but be sensitive to whether it’s a topic someone wishes to speak of, as we have had times where some historical topics can be out of bounds.)

8 Day Classic Ecuador & Amazon Adventure